Rock stars, nurse and President wearing the five-Oh-one. Has Levi’s Chief Designer Jonathan Cheung slightly
Hamburg – a jumpsuit for tough guys that toiling away in mines and did not ruin their clothes: in 1873, Levi Strauss from the German Buttenheim and the US tailor Jacob Davis tinkered on a rugged, comfortable, durable piece of clothing. They invented: the Blue Jeans.
On May 20, the two reported their patent for man pants with copper rivets. The first model called simply XX. 17 years later his pants got the name under which she should be legendary: 501. The “time” magazine named them the “fashion item of the 20th century” – before the mini skirt or the little black.
The cut of Levi’s five-Oh-one has been adapted easily over the decades: times came a back pocket, even the pant legs were wide, the Hip section narrow. Now is the most recent version on the market: the 501 CT. The two letters are available for customized and tapered: sits in the hip slightly looser jeans, from the knee down the pant legs are narrow cut, the foot opening has been narrowed; the first change to the 501 for five years.
Responsible, Jonathan Cheung is Chief Designer at Levi’s since July, 2013. Cheung grew up in the UK Grantham, his family hoped he would make something sensible: lawyer will be. Or teachers. Instead, Cheung attended the London Kingston University, after graduating, he worked in Milan for Moschino, then for iceberg. CHEUNG moved to a station in Armani Jeans 2009 with Levi’s.
Mirror ONL INE: Mr Cheung, please forgive: you just wearing what pants?
CHEUNG: A 501. How to 350 days a year. On the other, I’m wearing a 505. Or I’m reading.
Mirror ON LINE: How many pairs do you have in the closet?
CHEUNG: At 50, I have honestly ceased to count. But there are likely to be significantly more. It happens to me when my wife would shake their heads when I drag again along with a new pair. But why should I wear something else? The 501 is the mother of all jeans and the greatest piece of clothing ever.
Mirror ON LINE: Well, you have to say that your job.
CHEUNG: I what mean these jeans and what influence they have knew me before my time at Levi’s. Also during my time at Moschino and Armani, I’ve worn the 501. It is for old and young, men and women, for miners and rock stars, for Steve Jobs and Bey once. That there is not a second time in the fashion industry.
Mirror ON LINE: The 501 is also: a simple pair of jeans. And one that celebrates this year its 142nd birthday. How do you explain is that there still is the model?
CHEUNG: With a credit card and Internet access you can buy today around the clock, they can spend 20 or 1000 dollars for a pair of jeans. But just in this infinite choice we go back us on things, that mean something. The 501 you look at and remember what travel you have worn the jeans at whatever work or party.
Mirror ON LINE: Sounds as if you had that experience.
CHEUNG: I take note of me often on the inside of my pocket, where and when I bought the jeans. A pair that has been my wife Zoe when she was pregnant has a special meaning. Our daughter has grown virtually in the 501. Just I have embroidered the couple with a small bee, subscribed my daughter. A drawing of my son is to see the letter B with two wings on the other leg. Bee is my nickname for Zoe. The story of this 501 continues so.
Mirror ON LINE: You can build an emotional attachment to each piece of clothing.
CHEUNG: That’s true, but the 501 has a cultural significance, which otherwise has no clothing. You have seen the 501 on Marlon Brando to Bruce Springsteen,Rihanna and Barack Obama. The 501 was there first, it is the original, it is the jeans.
Mirror ON LINE: Now you have slightly changed the cut for the first time for five years. How do you reinvent a classic?
CHEUNG: With much respect. We change the cut very rarely and not reckless. We have about six months in our innovation lab Eureka fiddled, five-minute walk from my Office. And this time was the change from the bottom upwards, which has made it easier.
Mirror ON LINE: From bottom to top?
CHEUNG: By this I mean that the new interface derives from the fact that we have observed people and what they do with their 501. In recent years, we noticed that numerous people sew close their old jeans on the legs. I myself do so since the 1980s, my boss Karyn Hillman. And we remove now this step our customers, we bring the 501 by default with narrower pants legs on the market.
Mirror ON LINE: The fashion industry thrives on trends. Is it not quite un cool to wear a pair of jeans that have been the mother and Grandpa?
CHEUNG: For a fashion company, it is nowadays a great temptation, to be a bit of everything: a bit chic, sporty at the same time and everyday use. But if you try, everything a little, it will be really nothing. That’s why it’s so important to have an identity as a fashion label. And it is never cool.
Mirror ON LINE: In fashion magazines and street style blogs, denim is celebrated as a trend for the coming season. Where is the charm on the jeans look?
CHEUNG: In the diversity. Denim you can combine with a simple white T-Shirt and filthy sneakers or a Celine handbag and Christian Louboutin heels.
Mirror ON LINE: The 501 was gold mining and cowboy pants cheap all purpose clothing, then the symbol for cool understatement at times of the great depression. What is it today?
CHEUNG: Authentic, down to Earth, honest. And she shows her roots, which lie in the working clothes for men. It is one for all.